Since We Do Not Manufacture The Product And Have Not Tested It, We Don’t Recommend Its Use With Our Floors. If You Choose To Use A Non- GOLDEA Maintenance Or Cleaning Product And You Have An Issue, We Recommend Contacting The Manufacturer Of That Product For Recommendations On How To Resolve It.

Currently, GOLDEA Does Not Participate In The Flooring Removal Business. Contact The Resilient Floor Covering Institute For The Recommended Work Practices Of Flooring And Adhesive Removal. They Have A Video And Booklet Available That Contain Recommendations And Information On Local Ordinances.

Which Floor Type Does GOLDEA Recommend For A Garage Installation?

In Order For Flooring Materials To Be Installed In Residential Or Commercial Garages, The Flooring Material Must Meet The International Residential Code R 309 For Garages And Carports For One- And Two-Family Residential Buildings Or The International Building Code 406.2 For All Other Buildings. The Codes Specify That Garage Floor Surfaces Should Contain Approved, Non-Combustible Material. GOLDEA Flooring Products Do Not Meet This Standard, And Therefore Should Not Be Installed In Areas Where Vehicles Will Be Parked On The Surface Of An GOLDEA Floor.

In Addition, GOLDEA Flooring Should Only Be Installed In Temperature-Controlled Environments. Normally, Garages Are Not Temperature-Controlled. After Installation, The Temperature Should Be Maintained At A Minimum Of 55 Degrees.

Another Issue With Garage Floors Involves Spilled Or Dripped Liquids From Automobiles, Such As Brake, Transmission And Oil. If These Liquids Are Leaked Onto The Resilient Flooring, They Can Get Into The Joints Of The Tile And Break Down The Adhesive, Creating A Bonding Issue, And Possibly Leading To An Installation Failure. Also, The Oils And Antioxidants Used In The Manufacturing Process Of Rubber Tires Will Cause A Permanent Yellow Discoloration To Any Resilient (Vinyl) Flooring. Lastly, Exposure To Moisture From Rain, Snow Or Sleet And Varying Temperatures Will Have A Damaging Effect On Both Tile And Sheet Flooring.

There Are Many Contributing Factors That Affect The Cost Of Any Hardwood Floor, But Always Keep In Mind That It Is Very Much A Long Term Investment. Even A Semi Solid Wood Floor Will Deliver 25 Years Or More Of Good Use. As For Solids, Well They Simply Last Generations. However, The Real Value Is The Beauty, Elegance And Natural Warmth That Hardwood Flooring Brings To Your Home. That Said, Let’s Look At The Contributing Elements:

Species: Some Species Are Rare And Expensive Such As Wenge Or Old Growth Walnut. Other Hardwoods Are More Often Used In Flooring And Are Less Expensive Such As Oak And Ash. While There Are Plenty Of Softwoods, Such As Douglas Fir And Eastern White Pine, And Softwoods Are Generally Less Expensive.

Grade: The Grade Of Wood Used In Your Floor Is Also Very Relative. The Rule Of Thumb Here Is The Cleaner The Grade Of Wood, The More Expensive It Will Be.

Width And Length: Anything That Affects The Yield (That Is The Amount Of Quality Product The Manufacturer Gets From The Log) Affects The Price. So The Wider And Longer You Go, The More Expensive It Tends To Get.

Dimensional Cut: This Means How The Log Was Cut And This Also Affects The Yield.

Origin Of Product: High Quality Manufacturers Based In The EEC Will Always Be Slightly More Expensive Than Low Quality Flooring Manufacturers In China.

Surface Finishes: There Are Now Many Different Types Of Surface Finish And Many Combinations Of The Same. Brushing, Smoking, Thermal Treating, Distressing, Lacquering And Oiling. Many Of These Finishes Are Done By The Hand Of The Artisan And Takes Patience And Time.

Origin Of Raw Material

Certification: By Certification We Mean Tests Carried Out By Independent Assessors Such As DIN Standard Or CE. This Ensures That The Product You Purchase Has Been Tested And Passed As Fit For Use To The Highest European Standards.

SOLID, ENGINEERED, SOLID ENGINEERED, SEMI SOLID

Answer: This Is A Hard One. The True Wood Lover Would Tell You Solid. The Wood Technologist Would Probably Tell You Engineered Yet The Vast Majority Of Floors Sold In Europe Are Semi Solid .The Fact Is, They Are All Good Choices. The Main Contributing Factor Here Is The Job Site Or The Environment It Is Being Installed In. For Example, Is Your Subfloor Is Plywood, Or Your Existing Sub Floor Is In Good Condition, There Is No Reason Why You Should Not Choose Solid. However, If You Have A Concrete Sub Floor And You Do Not Wish To Batten Or Sheet Ply The Job Site Out, Well Engineered Or Semi Solid Is The Choice For You. Remember, There Is A Hardwood Floor Solution For All Subfloors.

These Are Simply Descriptions Of How The Floor Is Installed Or The Method Of Installation. For Example, A Floating Floor Is Normally Of Engineered Construction And Has Been Designed To Float. This Means That It Is Not Fixed To The Sub Floor But Quite Literally Floats On A 3mm Acoustic DPM. They Can Be A Lock Or A Click System But Most Normally It’s A Tongue And Groove Floor Where The Long And Short Sides Of The Floor Are Glued Together Using A 3D PVA.

Solution 1: Wax Or Penetrating Stain. Wax The Affected Area Using A Soft, Clean Cloth.

This Occurs When Humidity Changes From Winter To Summer Are Not Controlled In Your House. Typically If The Separations Occur, It Is In Winter And They Will Close In The Summer. Indoor Humidity Should Be Maintained Between 35%-55% Year Round.

Wide Width Flooring Combined With Relative Humidity Will Cause Slight Changes In The Width Of Your Flooring; Especially In Sizes Over 5". Proper Indoor Humidity Control Will Minimize These Effects.

Many Species Of Hardwood Change Color Over Time, After Exposed To Sunlight. The Degree Of Change Depends Upon The Species Of Wood.

Cherry Will Darken When Exposed To Direct Sunlight In A Few Weeks. Out Of Direct Sunlight, It Will Darken Over A 6-8 Month Period. Your Cherry Flooring Should Reach Its Darkest Color In Approximately 2-3 Years, However, It May Continue To Darken With Age.